Razor Blunt Bushcraft Knife Part 3

I couldn't resist grinding the pins down to see how it'll look with the Bog Oak.

I like it!

There's quite a bit of space between the back pin and where the Padauk is going to meet the Bog Oak.If I had used one piece of wood for the handle, the front pins would offer support but I felt that I shoud add something extra. I would like to leave the handle quite clear of this one so I'm not going to add an extra pin, but instead will use a hidden epoxy rivet. Hopefully it'll become more clear later as I go throught he process but essentially, I'm going to make another hole through the metal and a blind hole on each side of  the wood. This'll be filled with epoxy resin, which will act like a pin.

I was fairly certain tha Razor Blunt uses an oven for heat treating his blades so assumed that the tang had been hardened. Carbide drill bits are a must for hardened steel!

When using carbide, I put the drill as slow as possible by changing the pulleys.

Annoyingly I caught the safety switch and snapped it's bracket!

Without this in place, the drill won't start as it's designed to stop you from running the drill with the pulleys exposed, catching yourself in them.

I will fix it, but for now a bit of masking tape saves the day!!

(If you do this, it's at your own risk)
Blade clamped up, ready to drill. The green gunk is a cutting compound which helps lubricate the drill bit.

Take it nice and slow, let the drill bit do the work. Hardly any pressure is required. I should have added more cutting compound part way through. At the end when it binds, that's when it's hit the wood.

Before i glue anything on now, I've drawn through that front hole as the second scale to be glued on will be drilled before gluing - hopefully it'll make sense later!

First scale is being glued on

In this case they're being done individually to make sure the joint between the Padauk & Bog Oak is spot on.


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